"I thank you God for this most amazing day, for the leaping greenly spirits of trees, and for the blue dream of sky and for everything which is natural, which is infinite, which is yes." - e. e. cummings

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11.09.2010

the Roan Highlands

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Hello to all!

It has been a few weeks and life seems to be moving faster than ever. Last weekend myself and four other guys (Chris, Jared, Dan, and Micah) went on an all dude RA backpacking trip to the Roan Highlands...a beautiful region where the Appalachian Trail travels from Carver's Gap, TN into the city of Roan Mountain, NC. This is a portion of the AT I have hiked 4 times now and it never gets old. But this time in particular was simply spectacular; the most beautiful weather I've ever had here. 


And it really is a blessing to have had such good weather for all three days out there. Last year for this same RA trip we didn't have a lick of good weather...just thick fog and intense wind. The year before we had just one good day of weather. So this year, not only was I thrilled for the sunshine, but I had forgotten how beautiful this hike is and how glorious the sun shines on the golden balds in autumn. 




We drove the 4 hours from Chattanooga to Carver's Gap Friday evening getting in around 10 pm to set up our tents and call it a night. It was pretty chilly, but crystal clear throughout the sky. The stars were stunning. It's been a long time since I've seen such a bright sky. We got a decent rest and woke up to a cold and crisp morning. But once the sun came out, the day weather became really enjoyable. We got on the trail around 10 AM because we really didn't have that long to go. Once we got started it was immediate excitement for all of us as we hiked up to 5800' and beautiful views from Round Bald and Jane Bald. I was continually stopping to take in all the views around us. 





We took a break to do devotions on top of a rocky portion of Jane Bald. We read through Isaiah 40, and certain verses really stuck out in the midst of such raw beauty.

4 Every valley shall be raised up, 
every mountain and hill made low; 

the rough ground shall become level, 

   the rugged places a plain. 

5 And the glory of the LORD will be revealed, 

   and all people will see it together. 

 For the mouth of the LORD has spoken.”

21 Do you not know? Have you not heard?

Has it not been told you from the beginning?
   Have you not understood since the earth was founded?

22 He sits enthroned above the circle of the earth,
   and its people are like grasshoppers.
He stretches out the heavens like a canopy,
   and spreads them out like a tent to live in.

23 He brings princes to naught
   and reduces the rulers of this world to nothing.

24 No sooner are they planted,
   no sooner are they sown,
   no sooner do they take root in the ground,
than he blows on them and they wither,
   and a whirlwind sweeps them away like chaff.
 25 “To whom will you compare me?

   Or who is my equal?” says the Holy One.
26 Lift up your eyes and look to the heavens:
   Who created all these?
He who brings out the starry host one by one
   and calls forth each of them by name.
Because of his great power and mighty strength,
   not one of them is missing.
28 Do you not know? Have you not heard?

The LORD is the everlasting God,
   the Creator of the ends of the earth.
He will not grow tired or weary,
   and his understanding no one can fathom.

29 He gives strength to the weary
   and increases the power of the weak.

30 Even youths grow tired and weary,
   and young men stumble and fall;

31 but those who hope in the LORD
   will renew their strength.
They will soar on wings like eagles;
   they will run and not grow weary,
   they will walk and not be faint.

So much of this passage just cries out to the majesty and wonder of the Creator God and reading this amidst the wonder and vastness around us made this so real to me. Creation is so beautiful and huge, but it is NOTHING compared to the hugeness and greatness of God.


The rest of our hike took us down to the Overmountain Shelter, or the "Barn", where we stayed the night. We got in fairly early so we had time for some individual solitude, gathering of firewood and preparation of the "sweat lodge". A sweat lodge is a homemade sauna/steambath. You simply heat up a few rocks in a campfire, then place them in an open space, sitting around them in a circle and placing a tarp over the circle. When you pour water over the rocks it creates a steam that gets trapped in the tarp and cleans out your pores. It's an old backpacker trick for taking a shower and cleansing the body. And did it feel great after a day on the trail! 






We had a good evening with a great dinner cooked over the fire. And I slept great that night. There is something really special about a campfire...it collects comradery and demands vulnerability from those around it. There's a real comfort that speaks through the flames and enhances conversation as chunks of wood become burning coals.

The next day was rough. We had only hiked 5 1/2 miles the day before so it was a big jump to push 12 miles with 2000' of elevation change multiple times. We hiked straight up for a mile which gave us terrific views of the "Barn" as we looked back into the valley. After about another mile we had reached the peak of Little Hump Mtn. A beautiful grassy bald which allows complete 360 views around you. Simply stunning vistas in the crisp mountain air. In the deep distance was Grandfather Mountain, a famous North Carolina mountain. It's jagged crest looked like a puzzle piece against the ripe blue sky. 










The wind was too intense to hang out for long at the top so we quickly descended and came into another valley at the base of Big Hump Mountain which we began ascending almost as soon as we had stopped descending Little Hump. This is quite a climb. About a mile of straight upward trail. But certainly a beautiful sight. I really love letting others go way in front of me so that I can see them trek ahead of me looking like tiny ants heading up the trail. That's the cool thing about the Roan Highlands is that the higher altitudes are complete grassy plains and balds which gives you full sight of the trail ahead and behind and complete views around you. There are very few places that allow you to see where you are going and where you have come from, even 10 miles away.








We peaked Big Hump, did some devotions, and ate lunch. Met a through hiker who has been out since mid May. On our way back we kept running into him at different rest areas and had interspersed conversations. I always find it a real privilege to meet a through hiker on the trail. There is so much experience in that one human being, yet there is so much peace and chill excitement in their eyes and voice. Each step they take is another cool piece of the journey, but they don't make it anything bigger than it really is...after being on the trail for 6 months there's a certain composure that is evident. Yet, in the Roan Highlands there never ceases to be a "Whoa!" among through hikers. Because the beauty there is so unlike anything you will ever see in the South or in the entire East for that matter. 





So we hiked back down Big Hump, up Little Hump, down Little Hump and then all the way back from where we had come the day before...a lot of uphill. But the beauty made it bearable. We finally got back to the car around 4 pm and that was that. Another great trip...and a much needed outdoor adventure. My first backpacking trip of the fall, long overdue, but the addition of my kayak has kept me from the backpack recently. And honestly, that's not too bad a trade.

So here's a short video of our hike:

A map of this portion of the trail:

View Male RA Backpacking Trip in a larger map




Well...that's all I have for now. My next planned travel is to Washington state for Thanksgiving break to visit my Grandparents. I cannot wait to get out there.

But until then I will say farewell, 



-b garrison

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